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Dimity Jones

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Three to One: The Best Chicken Liver Mousse Recipe, ever.

THREE TO ONE: A lot of people ask me why I called my blog “Three to One”. It was based on the idea that there are a lot of recipes on the web, and that if you search something simple, like ‘chocolate cake’, for instance, you’ll get a barrage of well meaning and possibly amazing ideas, but how do you know which is the best? How do you know which one will taste great? And which one do you try without wasting money and time on ingredients and cooking? What if someone were to test and take all of those, and reduce them down to just one? Since it seemed, (to me, at least) that recipes usually take three different tacts. I wanted to create a site that was taking the three tacts, and reducing them to one. Thus was born, Three to One… 

THE BEST CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE RECIPE (from MARLOW AND SONS) Marlow and Sons is a restaurant based in South Williamsburg, Brooklyn, that has had Chicken Liver Mousse on it's menu for as long as I can remember. So I decided to spend some time hunting down the recipe, and here it is. I found it in Diner Journal, Issue No. 9 Fall 2008, and Issue No. 14 The Poultry Special Edition 2010. The recipe is from Caroline Fidanza, Ex-Chef of the restaurant and it's truly unique. I've made the recipe three times now, and it really is the best chicken liver mousse I've ever eaten. I love the way the recipe is written too, it's very intuitive, and If you follow it step by step, you can't go wrong. It's perfect for New Year's Eve, or in fact perfect for any gathering.

CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE Serve with plenty of toasted or grilled baguette. Chicken Liver Mousse will hold in the fridge for about a week. 

1 Spanish Onion, sliced 4 Shallots, sliced 6 Cloves of Garlic, sliced 1 pound of Chicken Liver Half a cup of Brandy Unsalted Butter Sherry Vinegar

In a heavy bottomed sauté pan heat one stick (or a quarter pound) of butter until it sizzles. Add the onion, garlic and shallots to the butter. Season well with Salt, turn heat to medium low and allow to slowly and deeply caramelize. Drain the chicken livers through a strainer and then lay them out on paper towels to absorb any blood or moisture. Look over the livers and remove any unpleasant things hanging off them. Season the livers well with Salt and Pepper on both sides. In a separate sauté pan, cook the livers on high heat in a combination of olive oil and butter, about 3 tablespoons of each to start. Cook the livers fast allowing them to brown on the outside but remain pink on the inside. Cook livers in small batches being sure not to overcrowd the pan. Deglaze the pan inbetween batches with sherry vinegar. Transfer the cooked livers and onions to a bowl until everything is all cooked. When the livers are cooked, deglaze the pan with Brandy and then pour the Brandy over the livers and onions. Allow everything to cool.

Note: Don't be afraid to add a lot of butter to the pan to cook the livers and the onions. This is where a lot of the flavor is going to come from. This is not a low-cal, low-fat dish so you may as well make it taste good.

Once the livers and onions are cool but not cold puree them in the food processor. Put everything in at once and let the motor run, you want this to really smooth. Season with sherry vinegar, salt and pepper, tasting over and over again until you don't feel that it can taste any better than it does. Chill.

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To get info on how to visit Marlow and Sons, click here. For info on how to purchase containers of this chicken liver mousse at Marlow and Daughter's (their nearby butcher shop), click here. To get info on chef Caroline Fidanza, who is now running the sandwich shop, "Salty", click here.  To subscribe to the Diner Journal, click here.

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Photograph: Daniel Håkansson, check out his work, here. 

 

 

 

tags: Best Chicken Liver Mousse Recipe, Best Chicken Liver Pate, Caroline Fidanza, Chicken Liver Pate, Diner Journal, Marlow and Daughters, Marlow and Sons
categories: Uncategorized
Sunday 01.13.13
Posted by threetoone
 

Diner Journal. Issue No. 22. "Town & Country"

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From Anna Dunn. Editor-In-Chief of the Diner Journal...

"This journal amounts to the traingulation of a moment. Like trying to hold a bubble in your hand or committing on summer's sunset to memory. This is about longing, to go back to stretch one perfect moment into an eternity, to return to a taste, to stay always with friends as the soft night sifts into the sky. Our lives, in this way, are a series of exquisite losses. Ones we are thankful for.

Orange and blue are the colors of nostalgia, the way a lense catches light or flame spits from the fire, the way a wave reaches for a moment toward the sky. Nostalgia, the word and the sum of all its parts, derives from the Greek word for home and the Homeric word for ache. We are a population of perfect storms forever wanting to be captured and then set free. A photograph never does it. Neither does this Journal."

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The Diner Journal is a quarterly magazine from the folks over at Marlow and Son's restaurant, under restaurateur Andrew Tarlow, and editor in chief, Anna Dunn, and this is the one journal I always buy, no matter what, as they nail it, in every respect. 1. Editorially, it always has a really strong focus; and it's usually themed. (whether it be Fall, Spring, Summer or Winter, etc. They also did a Poultry issue, once, which I have, and their current issue (above) it titled 'Town and Country", which merges images, literature and recipes from the city and the land and 2. The recipes are always from their chefs, or cooks who work for the restaurant, so you know they'll work, and also they are usually something you've never heard of before. You'll want to pore through and bookmark them, and keep turning back to them, time and time again and, 3. the photography and art work are always cutting edge and inspiring  

They're current issue, No. 22. "Town & Country" (with pics above) has recipes such as Grilled Sardines + Eggplant w/ Bone Marrrow Agrodolce, Grilled Corn in Clarified Lobster Butter and a ridiciously easy Smokey Eggplant Dip that I want to make right now.  
The Diner Journal grew out of the creative flow of the restaurant staff working together everyday, and they hope this independent spirit shines through. There's a certain intangibility to the feeling of dining in a restaurant at night, and the journal editors confess, they both hate and treasure; that the sensation is fleeting. Diner Journal was partly created as a print object that hopefully embodies and continues that feeling and mood from the restaurants. The goal was to make every page something that they would want to pass on and save and come back to, which is why they don't have any advertisements.

The themes of each issue are decided organically and their contributor list is too. Many contributors work at their restaurants (Marlow and Sons, Diner, Roman and Reynard), or are people they know professionally in the industry, or are customers, even. The journal gives them the platform to work with different types of writers and creators; from poets and water colorists, to photographers and micro-finance wizards turned cheese-makers. Sometimes when they decide on an article, they can often base the theme of the entire issue around it.

How to get it? The journal is for sale within the cafe at Marlow and Sons, and they can also be bought online at Marlowgoods.com, as well as all over the US and internationally hand picked bookstores. They are also carried at Anthropologie. The diner journal comes out several times a year but if you order a subsription you will get 4 issues. To order the journal or to see their website for a full list of stockists, click here.

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Pic 1: Cover paintings: Blaze Lampert (scales) and Sope Phang (gratin). PIc 2: Steamer illustration by Lars Goran Karlsson
Pic 3: Spit-Roasted Lamb photograph by Julia Gillard.
Pic 4: Braised Squid in Grilled Tomato Sauce by Jenna Ransom
Pic 5: Country photo by Julia Gillard at Blooming Hill Farm
PIc 6: TOC illustration of the map by Tessa Basore and Becky Kirsten Johnson.
tags: Andrew Tarlow, Anna Dunn, Diner Journal, Diner Journal Williamsburg, Marlow and Sons, The Diner Journal
categories: Uncategorized
Tuesday 01.01.13
Posted by threetoone